What to do with the camera during the winter...
Updated December 18th 2015
© Jouko Lehto
Lappajärvi, about -20 centigrade. Olympus E-3, Zuiko 70-300mm f11, 1/2000s, ISO200. © Jouko Lehto |
And the cold keeps coming...
This blog
text got the idea from the questions in different forums: people asking can
they take photos in cold, will the camera get broken, how to handle the camera
and what to wear. For those of you who have been taking photos during winters
there might not be that much new - you might even find some hints missing.
Please make your comments in the end, there is a place for that. If You have a
good hint, please share it!
Here in
Finland we have a real winter for some months every year. Temperatures will go at least down to -30 centigrade also
this winter, we'll get enough snow... So I have some experience on this matter.
For more than 50 years...
To make this short for those in hurry, here is a short list first:
How to keep the camera
working during the winter
1. Keep the
camera dry.
2. Use the
lens hood.
3. Keep
extra batteries in a warm pocket in a small, closed plastic bag.
4. Keep
yourself warm.
Easy? No.
The longer version. And
some history
Now and
then there are questions in different forums about how to use camera in
wintertime. The manufactures usually recommend the use to some degree, like 0
or -10 centigrade or something (32F or 14F), and that's kind of restrictive for
us living in the areas where it can get a lot colder. Here in Finland it can go
at least down to -30 centigrade (-22F) every winter. In fact, it already has done that in the north.
In the old
days about every pro photographer had a manual, fully mechanical camera(s) for
winter use - everyone I know anyway. Those little button-sized batteries kept
the power for an hour or two in the cold, and changing them on those conditions
was a pain nobody wanted to do. Now the batteries are larger (also in the
size), but, again, they keep the power for a couple of hours in cold.
Fortunately they are easier to change...
So, while
waiting for the fully mechanical digital camera to appear, we have to use these
battery eaters. And I suppose we'll use them a long time.
Of course
there are reasons for camera manufacturers to make those recommendations about
useful temperatures. The battery life drops, the humidity problems and freezing
lubricants can cause some damage, and maybe even some body and lens materials
can get too fragile in extreme conditions.
Anyhow, I
have not broken a single camera or a lens in my life because of the winter.
Closest call was the "hammer", Konica ART3, with it's original lenses. At about
-30 centigrade it got frozen, and I could wind it up only by taking the lens
off after every shot... But then the film broke into pieces. The Olympus OM1
never left me in trouble, but even the slowish winder was too fast for film in
wintertimes - usually just some electric flashmarks on sides, but sometimes the
snap (film)...
Memory
cards won't break that way. At least the ones I have haven't. But don't try to bend them in cold.
Snow games. Olympus E-3, Zuiko 70-300mm f 5.6, 1/640s, ISO 200. © Jouko Lehto |
Keep the camera dry
This is the
difficult part. It's not the snow or rain, it's the humidity in the air that's
the problem.
The snow is
easy. Just keep it away from the lens. It can be cleaned off from the lens with
a clean handkerchief or tissue paper or something, and blown away from the
body, or wiped off. Hood helps a lot, it just keeps the falling snow away from
the lens in the first place. And even if you make a dive into the snow with
your camera, the hood protects the lens. You can also use a protective filter
(UV, skylight) if you like, but use the hood anyway. The lens cover is off
course a good thing to use between the shots. Wipe the camera and lens clean
before putting them into bag while you are OUT.
Rain is
just a bit more difficult. If your camera and lens are both "weather
sealed" and you trust that, threat the water just like snow. Wipe it off
and keep on shooting. Dry the equipments before putting them into bag.
But the humidity...
There is
always water in the air. No problem. We need it. But here we are dealing with
things like dew points in different temperatures.
Usually,
the colder the weather the dryer the air is. But usually we don't stay outside
in those cold temperatures for days. We get in to our homes and cabins and
hotel rooms when possible. And our living produces humidity - breathing,
sweating, coffee makers, potato boilers, showers, sauna... You name it.
When we get
in to a normal warm room from the cold, the camera is still cold. Under the dew
point. If the cold camera is in touch with that "humid" air, all the
humidity condenses to the camera and lens. The larger the change in temperature is, the stronger
the effect. So we have to avoid that.
Before
getting in or into a warmish place like a car or a tent or a house PUT THE CAMERA AND LENSES INTO A TIGHTLY
CLOSED PLASTIC BAG OR A GOOD TIGHTLY CLOSED BAG WITH ZIPPERS OR SIMILAR. And
don't open the bag before the bag and the camera equipments have warmed up! You
will never get good photos inside, in any case, with that cold camera! Just
more or less foggy scenes and shades of gray.
If you
forget to put the camera into a bag, and got moisture on your camera, wipe it
as dry as you can, and let it warm up before you use it. Let the lens cover be
off. If you can, put the camera over or close to a moderate warm heath radiator,
not on a hot one. Do not take the lens
off! And hope the camera and lens were
weatherproof - do not zoom the lens in
and out, just leave it as it is.
If you took the lens off from a cold
camera in a warm room, pray for the best. You have moisture all over and in the camera. Do the next steps:
Take battery and card off, leave the doors open and take the lens off again -
leave the lens mount open. Find the warm radiator and place the camera and lens
close to it, and if possible, aim some "wind" into the camera. Hope
the camera dries out fast. After you are sure the camera has warmed up and
dried also from the inside, put the battery and card in and take some test
shots. If they are ok, you're fine. If not, contact the service.
Frozen pines. Seitseminen National Park, Olympus E-3, Zuiko 12-60mm f5.6, 1/80s, ISO 100. © Jouko Lehto |
Cold sweat?
Hanging the
camera in your neck is ok. Keep the lens cover and the hood on if it is snowy /
rainy / windy, and take the cover off just when you are planning to take
photos. Snow and water on the lens is not a good thing for IQ - usually.
Sometimes they can create a nice artzy image, anyway.
Putting the
camera inside a jacket or coat is not a good idea. Ever. NEVER, NEVER PUT THE
CAMERA UNDER YOUR COAT. Or any other clothes you are wearing. The sweat is more
dangerous to the camera and lenses than water. And the humidity of sweat will
get everywhere under your coat. We all sweat all the time, more or less. If you
really don't sweat at all, contact your doctor immediately.
The sweat
does a couple of things to electronics. First,
it conducts electricity. It can make some unwanted connections to the camera. Second, it is corrosive for
connections, materials, oils and also for some lens coatings, at least on old
lenses. I wouldn't want to make a test on sensor coatings or new lenses. Third, the sweat is mostly water. It
can freeze. And if that ice is inside your camera, the camera stops working for
a while.
The
corrosive (and connection) problems can occure after a long time, the freezing
can be immediate. Better to avoid both. Use a bag, it's better.
But the batteries...
This is
easy. Take some spare ones with you when going out. In my use the batteries
usually last for about 1-4 hours real winter photography, depending on how cold
it is, what I am photographing, and how. The colder and more intense shooting,
the shorter the battery life.
Keep spare
batteries in a warm inside pocket IN A SMALL, CLOSED PLASTIC BAG or something
similar, to keep them warm and dry. Change battery when needed. You probably
can reuse the "dead" ones again when they have warmed up, without
charging. They will also charge up nicely when they get warm.
Nowadays
the battery change is quick and easy on about every camera, so that is not a
big problem if you are ready to do it.
Bohemian waxwing eating rowan berries, about -25 centigrade. Olympus OMD E-M1, Zuiko 50-200mm, f5, 1/250s, ISO 800. © Jouko Lehto |
The cold
And I mean
cold. Around the freezing point everything works fine. The batteries can run
out a bit faster than usual, but nothing to worry. Just remember to put keep
the camera dry etc, and put it into a bag before going in, letting it warm up
in a dry bag. No problem.
I'm talking
about temperatures below -15 centigrade, way below freezing point. At certain
point lubricants like oils lose their quality, plasticks and metals get fragile
and the photographer just wants to get in as fast as he or she can.
I have been
shooting with different cameras below -30 centigrade... Maybe somewhere like
-35. That was cold. I know there are much colder places on earth every year,
and I'm glad I don't have to be there.
But the
point is, that the cameras usually worked - at least as long as the batteries
worked. They slow down - the focusing gets slower, aperture works slower etc, but
they work. Oh yes, everything is slower on those temperatures anyway.
The problem
is the photographer and the ergonomics.
It's not a
good idea to handle camera and lens bare handed on those circumstances. Using cloves or mittens makes handling harder,
the harder the smaller the camera is.
I like
small and light cameras and lenses. I use Olympus gear now for that reason. But
the only camera suitable for use with mittens in my gear is the OMD E-M1, with
the grip. Luckily it works about fine, even if it is still on the smallish side
for that. All those buttons.... And the smaller lenses just vanish into
mittens. I still use the older FT-lenses (12-60, 50-200 etc) because of the
quality, but also because they can be used with gloves and mittens. The new 12-40
and 40-150 seem to be ok for that too. The pancakes are for warmer conditions.
Of course they work, but...
Fortunately
the cameras are automatic nowadays. You can set about everything to auto-mode,
from AF to auto iso, bracketing etc. That helps. You know, with snow the light
meters usually get fooled. You have to compensate. For AF there usually is
enough contrast and light, except the nighttimes. IS / OIS / VR /whatever shake
reduction helps with low light shooting. Never has it been this easy before.
Even framing from the back screen helps - the OVF/ EVF/RF -finder won't get
that steamy, and you can even breath during photography sessions. In the long
run that helps a lot.
Keep warm
Yourself, I
mean. The doctors don't like to do amputations that much. A photographer with
frozen fingers or toes is a useless photographer - and maybe fingerless or
toeless soon.
Check the
weather (and forecast) before going out, and dress yourself properly. I don't
mean Mr. Bond-style... We do use wooly underwear here when necessary. Don't
forget the gloves, good warm shoes and
something warm for your head. You know it can be even 30% of the escaping body
heath that goes away from the bare head? A wooly hat or something helps.
First body
parts getting serious cold bites are ususally auricles, nose, cheekbones,
fingers and toes...
For the
rest of the body... Think what you are going to do. If you are going to stand
on one place, you'll need a lot of warm clothes. If you are going to walk
around all the time, less - even if it is really cold. If you are going to
sleep outside, you'll need a very good sleeping bag. If it's windy, the cold is
more biting. Think. Remember also, that wet clothes won't keep you warm. Wear layers,
layers... Maybe it's a good idea to put
some extra into the bag?
The reason
I'm writing this is sentence here is, that I have seen some tourist groups
going for an arctic safari in Lapland. They have been properly dressed on the
safari with the help of the organizers - maybe even a bit "overdone", but they have been
from southern parts of Europe or Asia and not used for cold, so better that
way. But, after the tour, they have left their overalls and caps, even gloves
and boots and in a few minutes have started the body-shake autodance - the
tremor that starts when the normal body temperature gets too low. A good reason
to get inside quickly. But if you want to take photos outside...
The cold
also takes quite a lot of energy from you. Some hot drink in a bottle
(non-alcoholic!) helps a lot. Alcohol is not a good idea - it does make you
feel warmer, but in fact cools your body faster.
First snow at Seitseminen National Park. Olympus OMD E-M5, Samyang 7.5mm Fisheye f5.6, 1/13s, ISO 400. © Jouko Lehto |
Be creative!
Winter here
in north is very beautiful time. The lights may be low, the weather may be
cold, but it's beautiful. Polar night, Aurora borealis, snow, stars, nature...
And winter activities like skiing and skating, all open good possibilities to be creative and take
(and make) good photos.
Don't be
shy, get out!